A Foodie's Guide to New Orleans

The most exciting time of the year in New Orleans also happens to coincide this year with the Super Bowl.  Follow this guide to get a full tour of town while eating the best treats.

Day 1: 

The French Quarter: 

800 Decatur Street

Starting out in the French Quarter admire the wrought-iron balconies, tall shutters, courtyards and horse carriages. Start your walking excursion at the French Market located alongside the Mississippi river (the first outdoor produce market in the US). Make sure to pick up some hot sauce or my personal favorite Tabasco Sauce. You will soon smell the scent of beignets from Cafe du Monde.  Stop over for some of their famous sugar coated beignets and chicory laced cafe au lait. I guess it is worth mentioning that while in New Orleans, you should completely put aside any diet or idea of healthy eating and indulge in Southern Cajun food.

Next, listen to some local street musicians on Royal street. The street is closed off on weekends allowing local artists to set up at every street corner. Next, visit the St. Louis Cathedral and Jackson Square with its manicured lawns and if you are in the mood to learn what the future holds in store, sit down with one of the fortune tellers and let your fortunes be told.  Back on Royal street you can try a little antique shopping and visit some of the amazing art galleries.  Wonder around the different streets  and make your way over to Bourbon street to see one of the most happening streets in America (see post on Bourbon Street). 

Drago's Chargriled Oysters- 2 Poydras St

You might be hungry at this point. For one of the best meals of your life stop over at Mr. B's ($$$) on Royal Street for their world famous barbecued shrimp. Not feeling like having shrimp but want some of those oysters which make this town so fabulous? Then head over to Drago's ($$) for some of their world renown chargrilled oysters. If you want to eat somewhere where the ambiance screams New Orleans then make your way over to Acme's Oyster House ($$) to experience some live oyster shucking and eat it fresh or chargrilled to perfection. Their bloody mary's aren't so bad either.

The CBD and Warehouse District:

While the French Quarter is ever consuming with so much to see, do and eat make sure you venture out of the Quarter and see the other beautiful parts of New Orleans for I can assure you there is so much more to New Orleans than the Quarter. Walking out west from the French Quarter you will pass Canal Street which was once the glorious commercial hub of town but has unfortunately failed to keep its glory. Beautiful hotels are intertwined with cheap shops and run down storefronts. In this area you will find some of my favorite places to eat. If you are looking for a true Italian meal head over to Domenica's ($$) at the Roosevelt Hotel (http://www.domenicarestaurant.com).  Here renowned local chef John Besh and Alon Shaya (my former landlord) cook up some of the best Italian dishes in town. For Franco-German cuisine, head to Luke ($$) another of John Besh's delicious restaurants where you can have fresh oysters or my favorite the burger and fries (http://www.lukeneworleans.com).

Herbsaint- 701 St. Charles Ave

Walking further you will cross over into the Central Business District where restaurants such as the Herbsaint will deliver some of the best French food offered in the south. Sitting outside you can drink your wine and watch the Saint Charles trolley go on by (http://www.herbsaint.com). Next, keep walking until you enter the Warehouse District. The new yet old trendy part of town where loft style living and restaurants and bars line the streets. Here you will find some of my favorite restaurants including Cochon, La Boca and Root. If you love pork you will love Cochon (http://www.cochonrestaurant.com). The ambiance isn't so bad either...and with that comes a full house. I highly recommend making reservations for this one. If you're wanting the experience but don't have time, walk over just next door to Cochon to its sister shop, Cochon Butcher (http://www.cochonbutcher.com) for some amazing sandwiches and beer. If pork is not so much your thing but you love a good steak then La Boca will satisfy your beef cravings (http://www.labocasteaks.com/). A small Argentinian steak house offering tender beef, chimichuri and fries. Reservations are a must. Root is another popular restaurant which offers some of that hearty southern flavors with a modern twist.

Day 2: 

The Garden District:

Commander's Palace Martinis- 1403 Washington Ave.

The next day, take the trolley to the Garden District and explore the old mansions, graveyards and restaurants. For a truly exceptional meal and experience try Commander's Palace ($$$) for their fancy Sunday brunch where a jazz band will serenade you with each bite (http://www.commanderspalace.com). During the week you can also take advantage of their 25 cent martinis at lunch. After your meal and many martinis walk across the street to Lafayette cemetery and explore one of the oldest cemeteries in the US (also a scene of many Hollywood movies).  If a meal at Commander's Palace is not in your budget then don't miss the best sandwich in town at either Milk Bar ($) or Stein's Deli ($) (http://steinsdeli.net) where you can try unique sandwiches such as my favorites the Jeff Berger (prosciutto and honey) or the Robert (prosciutto, mozzarella and balsamic vinaigrette) at Steins or the Psycho Chicken at the Milk Bar. Either continue your journey on Saint Charles street or walk down to Magazine street stopping at Prytania street to take in the architectural beauty of all the homes. Once you pass Louisiana street you are technically in an area of town called Uptown.

Uptown: 

3025 Magazine Street

Once on Magazine, explore the many shops, galleries, antique stores and more. When you are done with all your shopping take a coffee break at one of the many shops on the street. If you fancy sweets along with your coffee then make sure you don't miss Sucre ($). One of my favorite places to go to fulfill my chocolate cravings. Their macarons are deadly but so are their french pastries and gelatoes. You just can't go wrong with this one (http://www.shopsucre.com).   Next, rent a bike at Mike the Bike Guy and make your way uptown. For the best french bread and pastries stop at La Boulangerie, a local favorite.   If you are looking for good restaurants you are in for a treat. Along Magazine street line some of the best in town including la Petite Grocery
(http://www.lapetitegrocery.com/) 
and Lilettes 

(http://www.liletterestaurant.com)($$$)which offers delicious french food. Make reservations in advance . Right next door to Lilettes is Bouligny Tavern (http://www.boulignytavern.com/) a small and trendy wine and tapas bar. They also happen to make some of the best cocktails I've yet to taste. If wine and tapas are your thing you may also enjoy the Belgian restaurant just north of Magazine at Delachaise ($$) (http://www.thedelachaise.com/). For a more traditional New Orleans drinking scene head over to the Columns Hotel on St. Charles street (http://www.thecolumns.com/). For those wanting a break from southern food try vietnamese food at Magasin Cafe ($) (http://www.magasincafe.com). 

A little further up on Prytania is my favorite local ice-cream shop at the Creole Creamery (http://www.creolecreamery.com). 

Carrolton/Oak Street:

At the end of Saint Charles, passed the beautiful Tulane and Loyola campus, passed the famous oak tree filled Audubon Park is where Saint Charles ends and Carrolton street begins. There are many great restaurants in this tiny area of town.  For burgers and some delicious comfort food head over to  Oak street to Cowbell (http://www.cowbell-nola.com), while on Oak Street check out the quaint shops and bars. If you want a once in a lifetime dining experience go to Jacquies-Imo's Cafe (http://jacques-imos.com). It's definitely one of the most unique places I've ever dined at in the world. You won't really understand until you experience it yourself. For Spanish tapas and sangria go to Cafe Granada (http://www.cafegranadanola.com), Lebanese food at Lebanon Cafe (http://www.lebanonscafe.com/), and my favorite tapas at la Boucherie. From here its a short taxi ride all the way to the north to my favorite spot to relax and take in the natural beauty of the south: City Park. 

Day 3: 

City Park: 

City Park is one of the most underrated natural beauties in New Orleans often overshadowed by by it's smaller sister Audubon Park. If you have enough time on your trip make sure not to miss this one. A trip to the park can include renting bikes, boating on the lake, visiting the New Orleans Museum of Art and much more. Spend the day with activities in the park. Then walk down to Esplanade  where you can enjoy lunch or dinner. Many great restaurants and local favorites are located on Esplanade street including the famous paellas at Lola's (http://www.lolasneworleans.com/) , the steak-frites at Cafe Degas (http://www.cafedegas.com/) or Mexican food at Santa Fe (http://www.santafenola.com). It is then a short bike or cab ride back down Esplanade to the French Quarter.  And you are done! You have completed a full tour of New Orleans. There is still so much I have left out including Po-Boys at Parkway Bakery and Tavern, fried chicken at Willie Mae's Scotch house, gumbo at Mothers and sno-cones at Hansen's. 

More time? 

For those with more time, you may find the new and upcoming neighbourhood around Freret street worth a visit. There are some great bars and restaurants lining the street including hot dogs at Dat Dog Nola ($), burgers at Company Burger ($), southern  food at High Hat Cafe and brick oven pizza at Ancora Pizzeria ($$). 

SnoWizard SnoBall Shoppe-Uptown (New Orleans, USA)

And the sno cone series continues. I tried Hansen's and feel that I officially have a good basis for comparison. Next on the list was SnoWizard located on Magazine street. What I like about SnoWizard is that it has a parking area and out door seating. It is also very organized and clean! The inside of the sno making room is clean and everything seems to be as it should be. Two young girls were working the day I went. Both very nice and professional. One took orders, the other made the sno-cones. 

The flavors and options were endless. The girl at the counter offered a tasting which I though was great. After tasting a few I settled on the Dreamsicle Cream stuffed with ice-cream and condensed cream. It is the only way to do it. However, I did not expect it to be so big! 

The ice cream was served on top of the sno cone and I had to dig in deep to get to the frozen ice and syrup. Not a problem at all since the flavours all blended perfectly.  

The sno was nice and smooth. Not the same as Hansen's but in my mind just as good (especially since I only waited 5 minutes for this sweet treat). The syrup flavour was very nice and overall I really enjoyed it. I also liked the fact that there are seats for customers to sit down in- a great touch. When there are so many sno cone shops around town little details like that make all the difference in the world. 

Basil Leaf- Carrollton (New Orleans, USA)

Basil leaf is one of the only places in New Orleans where you can find Thai food...and also Japanese?

I tend to stay away from Asian restaurants that offer dishes from the entire region from Chinese to Thai to Korean and Japanese. It lacks authenticity. But when there aren't enough Thai restaurants to choose from beggars can't be choosers. 

On one of our last nights packing up, fridge empty along with stomachs, we started roaming the streets of New Orleans looking for a place to dine. The time: 9:30 pm on a weeknight. Fact: not too many restaurants are open past 9:00 pm in New Orleans on weeknights. We originally had our stomachs and hearts set on Panchita's-the Mexican diner next to Basil Leaf but upon arrival found them closing up shop. Stomachs churning and McDonald's becoming a likely dinner option we turned to Basil Leaf. I had always wanted to try it since its one of the only places on the small international culinary strip of Carrollton which I had not yet tried (Cafe Grenada being my favorite). 

Even though we were the last ones in the restaurant we were greeted warmly and seated. There were so many choices on the menu from sushi to pad Thai. We ordered the special crab cakes and corn for an appetizer. I hadn't set my expectations high. At that point, I just wanted to fill my belly with food. Good or bad- it did not make a difference. So I was pleasantly surprised when I took the first bite of the crab cake. It was the first time I had tried crab cake with such a range of flavours and combination. The corn added a sweet after taste to each bite. 

For our entrees we ordered the shrimp and chicken pad Thai and red chicken curry. The pad Thai was very good and the serving was huge with a generous amount of chicken and shrimp. The noodles not too soft and the perfect amount of sauce in each bite. 

The chicken curry was served with a scoop of white rice and contained broccoli and red peppers. It was also very tasty. I know what you are thinking. I was hungry so anything would have tasted good at that point. But after inhaling the crab cakes I think I could judge the tastiness level quite accurately. And both dishes were great. This review is based solely on the two dishes that we had. I cannot comment on their non-Thai dishes that they offer but I can say that their Thai food was what you would expect at any typical Thai restaurant. 

We came in extremely hungry and tired and left with our bellies full and happy. 

Little Tokyo Small Plates and Noodle Bar- Carrollton (New Orleans, USA)

Little Tokyo Restaurant chain is one of the best sushi places in New Orleans. The restaurant has been around for 25 years after the Yusuke family moved to New Orleans from Japan. There are several locations around town but our two favorites are the North Carrollton and South Carrollton ones. Both also offer Karaoke rooms. North Carrollton offers a Hibachi room which is also a fun option if you are going in large groups. The South Carrolton location has a younger vibe and has nightly live entertainment with some very talented local musicians. 

The restaurant has fish shipped from Tsukiji market in Tokyo three times a week which leads to authentic dishes and the freshest ingredients. Many rolls are New Orleans inspired with funky names to go with the rolls. After repeated trips to Little Tokyo and trying many of the rolls we have found our favorites: Chocolate city (spicy tuna, snow crab and avocado wrapped with soy paper, seared tuna and crunchy on top with mixed sauces), the burning man (spicy tuna and crunchy inside, pepper tuna and avocado on top with ponzu and eel sauce) and the burning woman (snow crab roll with pepper tuna and avocado on top with ponzu and eel sauce). See menu.

Being a big fan of ramen my favorite is the variety of ramen noodle dishes you can find at Little Tokyo Small Plates and Noodle bars. You can choose your soup base, level of spiciness and add as many toppings as you'd like.

Little Tokyo is our go-to spot for good sushi and ramen. The range of options on the menu and uplifting ambiance makes it our usual top choice for sushi. 

Courtyard Grill-Uptown (New Orleans, USA)

Courtyard Grill is the only place in New Orleans where you can feast on Iranian and Turkish cuisine. It is located on Magazine street and offers both indoor and outdoor seating. The Turkish chef blends his cuisine with the traditional Iranian recipes leading to a menu full of delicious dishes. 

The meal started off with a refreshing doogh beverage. Doogh is a yogurt drink blended with water and sprinkled with dried mint. It is a very popular drink in Iran and is always served with the traditional kabob and rice dish. 

We were also served with a basket of bread and a side of spicy tomato sauce. It tasted like a Turkish version of Salsa. The bread was perfect. It was chewy and crispy on the outside. The best I have had in New Orleans. 

For our main entrees, I chose the boneless chicken kabob served with a side of basmati rice, onions, grilled tomatoes, pickled cabbage and yogurt. The serving was just perfect. Not too much and not too little. The chicken kabob was marinated in saffron and was juicy and tender. The basmati rice was just as it should be: cooked perfectly so that it was not too soft and not too hard. The pickled cabbage and sliced onions were a great touch to the meal. 

The next entree was the Koobideh kabob. Koobideh is your Iranian version of a hamburger but while a hamburger is served on a bun the koobideh is served with rice. The koobideh was also tender and juicy and not overcooked. Always sprinkle your kabobs with a Persian spice called sumagh. It adds flavor and helps break up the fat. 

Overall, if you are hungry and want a perfect and delicious meal then you should definitely try the Courtyard Grill. The owners are wonderful people and the service is great. You can't go wrong with any of your choices since all are delicious and fresh. 

Emeril's Delmonico- Central City (New Orleans, USA)

I walked into Emeril's Delmonico with high expectations since it was my first time at an Emeril Lagasse restaurant. We wanted to try at least one of his three restaurants before leaving New Orleans.  The choices were Emeril's Delmonico, Emerill's and Nola Restaurant. We decided to try Delmonico's given the location and type of food. Emeril's Delmonico is located in the historic garden district right on St. Charles in a beautiful building and serves traditional creole food. 



We were seated at the piano bar while we waited for our table. Towards the end of the night people were dancing and the ambiance was fantastic. The decor is elegant and full of history.

 

We we immediately greeted at our table with water and a basket of bread and butter. The server was very attentive and went through all the specials and answered all our questions. 

Our first starter dish was the dry aged New York strip carpaccio, arugula, caper and pecorino. The description sounded delicious and the presentation was great; however I was very disappointed with the actual taste. I love beef carpaccio and order it often whenever it is offered on a menu. However, this carpaccio dish was covered in a mayonnaise flavored sauce and capers. I attempted to clear the sauce to the side but it still took away from the rich flavors of the meat and pecorino cheese. Typically, this dish is served plain with shaved pieces of beef, pecorino cheese, arugula, drizzled with olive oil. Overall, neither of us liked it and weren't impressed. 

The next starter dish was the barbecued shrimp over baked grit cake. Now, this dish was what I expected of an Emeril's restaurant. The flavor, presentation and creativity were all there. The barbecued shrimp sauce was one of the best we have had in New Orleans (second to Mr. B's). I have never had grits served as a cake and really enjoyed it.

For the main course, the Count ordered the dry aged moulard duck breast served with sweet corn choux, Swiss chard, roasted poblano and cheddar grits drizzled with a house made tasso jam ($29).  The meat was so dry which was a surprise since duck is a fattier meat and tends to be juicy. Overall, it was not a dish worth $29. It certainly didn't taste like a $29 dollar dish although the presentation and service were five star. 

The next entree was the jerk spiced lamb sirloin served with pickled pork braised collard greens, black eyed pea cake, mango chow chow and house made pickapeppa sauce ($32).  I don't know what it was about the dish but I really disliked it and couldn't touch plate. I am not a picky eater at all but there was something with this dish that did not sit right. I expected a lot more and was disappointed as soon as I took the first bite.  

As a result of the above, a side plate of fries were ordered. The fries themselves were not crispy. The skin was soft and some of the insides hard. However, the tart lemon sauce which it was mixed in was good. Perhaps that is why the skins were soft and soggy. 

We should have known to leave without having dessert but decided to try something else to sweeten our taste buds . Two chocolate cheesecake bites were ordered. Again, nothing special. Nothing to remember. And nothing to set apart Emeril's Delmonico from all the other wonderful restaurants in New Orleans. 

 

 

For the prices and and name, we  both thought we were in for a real treat only to leave the restaurant disappointed. There are so many wonderful, delicious and reasonably priced restaurants in New Orleans. It does depend on what you are looking for. If you are looking for a classy and elegant ambiance then you will enjoy this restaurant. However, if you want a really great New Orleans dining experience I would recommend going to one of the many other great restaurants (Mr. B's and Commander's Palace to name a few). 

 

Yogy the Yogurt Bar- Garden District (New Orleans, USA)

You may have noticed that frozen yogurt shops are popping up all over New Orleans. Many are franchises and others locally owned and operated. Yogy the Yogurt shop is a mom and pop yogurt shop which has been up and running for just over a month. They are located on Magazine street at the cross section of Louisiana street. They closed shop for a while in order to install a coffee and crepe bar since there is a serious coffee void in this strip of Magazine street with the closing of Rue de La Course. 

There is a large courtyard where you can sit down and enjoy your frozen dessert.

Toppings are mounted on a wall making it more functional and less messy.

I tried the Watermelon Sorbet which was tart and tasty. You pay by weight so make sure you don't go too crazy with your toppings. Even if you do (like I did) the prices are very reasonable and lower than other yogurt franchises in the area.

Overall, this is a wonderful cute and tasty addition to the Garden District.